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Forty years ago a derby-winning Salmon or lake Trout was
almost certainly a plug-caught fish. More and more anglers today are
switching to J-Plugs® because, as in the past, plugs are known to
produce more and larger fish on a regular basis. |
Today's J-Plug® is even better-built and more effective than its
predecessors as it's made of super-strong materials and designed for maximum
action and strength.
Another big difference is the availability of special J-Plug® finishes
designed specifically for deep water trolling and low light conditions such
as the special "Glo" patterns which pick up surface light and give it off
down deep. There is a special J-Plug® finish available today which will fit
any fishing situation, whether you're after Salmon, lake Trout, stripers,
brown Trout or other large game fish.
BASIC MINNOW IMAGE
J-Plugs® are fast-action, darting plugs ideally suited for trolling. They
are effective because they project a basic minnow image in the water which
all fish relate to in all water conditions. This is a basic, wounded minnow,
fast darting action which comes from a combination of special swivel chain
rigging and lure head chamber design. The precisely engineered tolerance
between the rigging and head chamber allows the swivel chain to shift and
reposition itself within the chamber. This constantly changes the plug's
attitude and direction in the water and creates its fish-catching, erratic,
darting action.
The swivel chain rigging also allows a direct rod to fish connection
after the strike as the plug body will slide up the line, free of the chain
and hook assembly and away from the fish. This eliminates head-shaking
leverage against the plug body that causes many fish hooked with solid
body-to-hook plugs to break free. Because the J-Plug® is buoyant and
separates from the hook assembly, it will float to the surface where it can
be retrieved in the case of a line break or bottom snag.
The J-Plug® is a trolling lure and can be fished successfully with a
variety of techniques. Trolling is a most effective fishing method,
particularly on big waters, as you can cover the greatest amount of water in
the shortest time allowing you to locate concentrations of fish quickly and
easily. Following are recommended J-Plug® trolling techniques.
FLATLINE:
With the surface or flatline technique, the plug is tied directly to 12- to
20-lb. test main line. No additional weights are used or, at most, a small
1/8- to 1/2-oz. keel-type sinker six feet up the line from the plug. The
lure is let out behind your moving boat 50 to 100 feet (anglers fishing for
lake Trout or brown Trout sometimes let out as much as 200 feet of line as
these fish can be very skittish of the boat wake) and the troll started.
This technique is effective when stripers, lake Trout, Salmon or brown Trout
are feeding near the schools of baitfish close to the top or when there is
an obvious abundance of other surface activity.
SHALLOW/MEDIUM:
With the addition of a standard keel sinker four to six feet up the line
from the J-Plug®, shallow to medium depths can be trolled effectively.
Sinker weights, depending on the depth desired, for this kind of trolling
usually run from 1 to 8 ounces with main line testing from 12 to 30 pounds.
Note: Always attach a swivel chain-rigged keel sinker with the single swivel
end knotted to your main line and the swivel chain end back to the plug. As
in flatlining, let out 50 to 100 feet of line behind your moving boat and
begin the troll.
DIVERS:
One effective way to get a plug deep without excessive lead weights, or if
you don't have a downrigger, is with a diving sinker such as the Deep Six®,
Pink Lady® or directional Dipsy Diver®. Standard rigging is with 4 to 6 feet
of leader between plug and diver and 20- to 30-lb. test main line to your
rod.
Set the diver to diving position, or in the case of the directional Dipsy®
set both the depth and side angle desired, let out 50 to 100 feet of line
behind your moving boat (slowly to ensure that no tangles occur) and begin
the troll.
DOWNRIGGERS:
J-Plugs® often are fished off a downrigger, by themselves (the most
popular way). With a downrigger you will be able to work all depths and will
have the advantage of no weights between you and the fish once hooked.
Anglers who troll J-Plugs® by themselves behind a downrigger often prefer 10
to 20 feet (some as much as 40 feet) between the line release and plug. The
longer lengths add to the erratic, darting action of the plug.
Dodgers can be used as attractors in conjunction with a #3 J-Plug® behind
a downrigger with good results. Size 0 or Size 1 Jensen Dodgers are
recommended. Be sure to allow at least six feet of line between the dodger
and downrigger line release so as not to inhibit the dodger's action. Allow
20 to 30 inches of leader between your plug and dodger (shorter leaders
impart faster plug action and longer leaders slower action).
LARGE PLUGS / LARGE FISH
Larger fish do prefer large plugs. Big fish will spend the least amount of
energy necessary to catch a meal . . . larger baitfish mean less energy
expended to fill up. So, if you're after big Salmon or lake Trout, use the
larger J-Plugs®. But, remember that smaller fish often will not attack a
large plug so the use of larger plugs, although great for big fish, may
prevent you from catching smaller ones.
Standard J-Plugs® are popular because they are especially effective in
deep water trolling situations, although, as indicated, they may be
successfully used in medium or shallow water as well. The J-Plug® features a
basic minnow design with a darting, erratic, free-swimming action which all
fish relate to. These plugs are easy to fish, require no tuning and the
direct hook-to-rod connection prevents fish from obtaining leverage against
the plug, resulting in more landed fish per number of strikes. J-Plugs® also
come in a variety of sizes and finishes (rattle models are available) to fit
every fishing situation and are versatile as they can be trolled either fast
or slow, depending on the fish species you're after.
Some other features and additional tips on fishing and using J-Plugs®
include: Keep them either in the water or in your tackle box. Extreme heat
can deform a plug's shape and direct sunlight can cause the finish to fade.
Before placing your plug in the water, check the swivel chain dacron harness
for wear and to ensure the knot is cinched tight. If the harness need
replacing you may obtain one from a dealer. The dacron harness is 80-lb.
test doubled. The hooks that come with the harness are high quality, 4X
strong and plated to resist corrosion.
J-PLUG® FINISHES / COLORS
One of the big reasons today's J-Plugs® are effective is because of the
wide variety of finishes and colors available . . . one to fit every angling
situation. Following is a rundown on a few of the more popular finishes and
what each represents and accomplishes in the water.
METALLIC:
Highly reflective metallic finishes match the flash and colors of baitfish.
Silver, Silver Cut Plug and Silver/Blue Top feature the reflective look of
baitfish.
GLO:
J-Plugs® are offered in Glo/Blue Top Ladderback and Glo/Florescent Green
Top Ladderback finishes. These are designed specifically for deep water
trolling because they contain phosphor pigments that give off light down
deep. Note that these finishes contain light-sensitive pigments that can be
burned and which will turn gray if exposed to strong, direct sunlight. It's
best to keep plugs painted with Glo finishes either in the water fishing or
stored away in your tackle box so overexposure doesn't occur. For a quick
and easy "glo charge" try Luhr-Jensen's handy Power Flash unit which can
double as a camera flash attachment.
SPARKLE:
Several new sparkle extra-attractive sparkle finishes are now available
on J-Plugs®. These include Sparkle Chartreuse/Fire Tiger, Sparkle
Chartreuse/Green Tiger, Sparkle Mother-Of-Pearl and Sparkle Fire Tiger.
These highly-reflective finishes provide additional strike-enticing action.
J-PLUG® TROLLING TIPS
• Trolling a straight line between two points is the least successful
path you can take, once fish have been located in an area. By trolling in
zig-zag patterns or in "S" curves, you will impart regular changes in depth
and speed to a trolled plug, creating the impression of a wounded, in
trouble baitfish which fish will view as an easy meal.
• Vary your speed. While slow is the password, this does not mean slow
all the time. A lure running through the water at a constant speed, at a
constant depth and giving off the same vibration pattern will not catch many
fish . . . there's just nothing there to indicate an easy meal is available
or that something is in trouble. Slowly, yes, but adjust your speed every
few minutes to change the lure's speed and vibration pattern.
• Troll Slowly. Big fish will not expend any more energy than necessary
to catch a meal. Also, most lures will not perform correctly at fast speeds.
The best advice is to troll slowly — the slower the better.
• Use a solid knot for connecting your plug to your line or leader such
as the improved clinch (see illustration on page 2) and always use a premium
quality monofilament line such as Trilene XT which has superior knot
strength, small diameter in relation to pound test and is abrasion
resistant.
• Purchase a quality depth sounder such as one of the Bottomline units
which will help in locating fish as well as prime underwater fishing
structure which can't otherwise be seen.
• Undoubtedly one of the easiest and least complicated things you can do
to improve your fishing results is to make sure all hook points are sticky
sharp. The majority of lost fish can probably be traced to dull hooks which
prevent proper penetration into the fish's mouth. A small file, such as the
Sharp Hook File is the absolute best tool available for sharpening fish
hooks. Hold the file parallel to the hook point and, with gently one-way
strokes, remove a small amount of metal from at least two sides of the point
to obtain both a super-sharp point and a knife-like cutting edge.
• Keep your plugs above fish as they can't easily see downward. On sunny
days fish will be deeper as their eyes are sensitive to strong, direct
sunlight.
• When trolling plugs in salt water you'll find the optimum feeding and
fish-catching times during low light periods and from an hour before, during
and an hour after a tide change. Fish areas where birds are working on
baitfish schools and troll the clean side of rips.
• In fresh water such as in the Great Lakes, the time of day isn't nearly
as critical as the depth and the location of the preferred temperature level
for the fish species you're seeking . . . the thermocline. Lakes stratify
into three separate layers of water in the spring and stay that way until
cold weather hits in the fall. The middle layer of water, where there is a
large concentration of dissolved oxygen, baitfish and therefore predator
fish, is called the thermocline and can generally be found from 10 to 80
feet down.
• The peak feeding and optimum temperature for coho and Chinook is 54°
with an active range from 54° to 54° For lake Trout the peak feeding and
optimum temperature is 54° with activity from 54° to 54° Fish will rarely
venture out of these zones once stratification has taken place, except to
catch a meal and then will quickly return to it. One thing to remember when
fishing temperatures layers such as the thermocline is that it can change
from day to day in terms of depth because of wind and/or wave action. It may
be several feet deeper or shallower one day from the next so you'll have to
locate it each and every time you go out.
Those are several of the tips and techniques which will help you
successfully fish J-Plugs® in your favorite waters and for your favorite
fish species. Remember to experiment, troll zig-zag patterns or otherwise
constantly change the plug's action, Keep hooks sticky sharp and go prepared
with a variety of finishes and sizes . . . there's a J-Plug® for every
fishing situation.
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