Introduction
Until a couple of years ago, the answer to “which line are you using?” was simple – virtually everyone used one of the various brands of monofilament line. Now however, the choices have expanded significantly: mono is still quite viable, the new spectra-super braid-super lines have some wonderful properties, fluorocarbon lines are almost invisible in the water, and hybrid lines that usually involve a coating or combo of polymerized line yield a ‘best of’ properties. So which do you choose? There are pros and cons to each.

Line manufacturers have invested heavily in developing new fishing lines that are better, stronger, and almost invisible in water. Fishing line has become a marketer’s delight. There are numerous lines available, many with unique features, however some of them are merely Madison Avenue hype. While we mention several brand names in this section, when you go to your tackle store you may see new ones and may not find some of those mentioned here. So be prepared to experiment.

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Quick Choice Recommendations - Even though choosing the right fishing line today has become more complex than ever, monofilament lines are still the favorite among the majority of anglers.

Leader Line Recommendation - I have tried numerous brands from the inexpensive to the top end stuff. I eventually settled with P-Line for most of my fishing, and I’ve been happy with this brand for sometime. For leaders I have been using 8# and 10# P-line Floroclear line for Steelhead leaders exclusively for the past two years. For Salmon fishing I have been using 20# Floroclear.

Float Fishing Line Recommendation - I suggest one of the high visibility braided lines like, Tuf Line XP, for your main line because it floats, is easy to cast, and has no line stretch. Try 20-30# test Tuf Line, Power Pro, or Fireline for your main line and the same leaders mentioned above. Please remember that you need to use special knots for these lines.

Salt Water and Heavy Line Applications - Many mono lines work well in both fresh and saltwater. The lines of choice for these applciations is either Izorline or Trilene Big Game line.

Cost - Expect to pay $8-$25 or more for 125-300 yard spools. Mono lines are generally less expensive than the hybrid and braided lines. Many companies offer larger spools of line, 1,000-3,000 yards or more, but I prefer to buy the smaller quantities for freshness even though if stored properly, most lines today have an almost indefinite shelf life.

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Five Major Categories of Fishing Line
Over the past few years we have seen significant growth in the number of line choices. Following is a brief discussion of the major choices available today.

1. Traditional monofilament lines
2. New “super” braided lines
3. Hybrid & Copolymer lines
4. Fluorocarbon lines
5. Leaders

Monofilament line stretches, which can be bad or good. Stretch makes line more forgiving when a big fish makes a strong run, but it also makes it harder to set the hook. The amount of stretch can be controlled by the additives but all monofilament will stretch some.

Many fishermen have found these lines excellent for both float fishing, because the line floats, and for plug fishing in conditions when you have lots of line out. Because of the no-stretch characteristics, you can get a quicker hook set, and because the lines are very strong, you get fewer break-offs.

Along with all of the great new features goes some less friendly characteristics. Because the lines are very narrow in diameter and have slippery surfaces, they have a tendency to interleave when wound tightly on your reel. The result can be horrendous backlashes where the only viable solution is to cut them out.

Further these lines have a tendency to twist. It is not uncommon to have the line wrap around your rod tip, and if you happen to pull at the wrong time, you could be replacing your fishing rod. Finally, because there is virtually no stretch in the line, you need to be more careful with setting the hook and then playing your fish. You need to be more careful with your drag settings on your reel in order to effective use these lines.

Finally, you will need to use special knots for these lines. Because the line surface is slippery, common improved clinch, Trilene knots, etc will not hold. See our discussion on knots, here.

I’ve found that several of the lines, (P-Line copolymer, Floroclear especially), have quickly become my favorites. These lines offer less stretch than mono counterparts, and more than the no-stretch braided liens. Further, knot strength is good with traditional knots. Next, I have found these lines to be more abrasion resistant than the mono lines, and finally, the flouro coatings are as effective as the pure fluorocarbon lines.

4. Fluorocarbon lines - When you immerse a fluorocarbon line in water, it blends in so well that it's almost impossible to see with the naked eye. And if the fish can't see it, they are far less likely to spook and more apt to strike. These lines have almost the same refractive index as water so it's practically undetectable to fish, (the line reflects light the same as water, blending with surrounding water instead of standing out.). Most have high tensile strength, excellent abrasion & UV ray resistance, and very low stretch. Another added feature is its minimal water absorption, creating a stronger fishing line, in or out of the water. It is a great choice to tackle the toughest fishing conditions.

Fluorocarbon fishing line has grown in acceptance over the past 2-3 years. There are 3-4 major manufacturers now offering 100% fluorocarbon fishing lines in a variety of line strengths and sizes. These lines are relatively more expensive when compared to traditional monofilaments, but most fishermen think they are worth it.

Fluorocarbon has been offered for years as a leader material because of these properties, but recent improvements in the processing have enabled makers to manufacture it with enough flexibility to be used solely as fishing line.

5. Leaders – Unlike fly fishing where leaders have a specialized designs, most Steelhead and Salmon fishermen use a lighter version of one or more main lines for their leaders. Seaguar, and several others, offered specialized flouro-based leaders but with the more widespread introduction of copolymer and less expensive mainline fluorocarbon based lines, their competitive advantage has diminished. Salmon are less line shy so a heavier leader is in order. Steelhead, on the other hand, are more easily spooked so a lighter and more invisible leader is in order. Any of the lines mentioned in this section can be used for leaders, but over the past couple of years I have been using P-Line Floroclear in either 8# or 10# test for my Steelhead fishing. See our discussion on length recommendations and rigging your leaders here.

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Line Characteristics Considerations
Here are several considerations to take into account when choosing your next fishing line

Line Strength – Be sure to match your line to the rod & reel you are using, the fish you are targeting, and the fishing conditions you expect to encounter. All rods come with a recommended line weight that should be followed. An exception is braided line, where you may want to match it’s diameter to the recommendeded monofilament equivalent – see chart below. Further your reel will indicate different line capacity for various weight lines. Next I always try to use a line strong enough to effectively and quickly be able to bring a fish to net/hand. Especially if you are going to release some/all of your catch, you want to be able to bring them in quickly so as not to wear them out to much. And finally, if you are going to be fishing in rocky, snag filled waters, you want to make sure that your line is extra abrasion resistant.

For most Steelhead fishing, a line weight of 10-15# will be more than adequate, with slightly heavier line for plug fishing. For Salmon fishing, line weight in the 15-30# range is common practice.

Finally, always use a leader that has less strength than your main line. When the inevitable snag happens and you have to break it off, you will only lose a small amount of leader, and leave less in the river.

Line Stretch - Line stretch has been a matter of personal choice for several decades. The mono line manufacturers have offered variations from low stretch to others than can extend by as much as 25-30%. Further with the introduction of the braided lines we now have the option to choose a no-stretch line. Line stretch is an effective shock absorber during the hook-set and when a fish makes a rapid change in direction. Some fishermen argue that having a little stretch in their line also results in less tearing of the fish’s lip, so the hook is more less likely to fall out. Others argue that a no stretch line gives you more direct contact with the fish and thus more control. So you have a choice in this regard for your own personal preference.

Monofilament can stretch as much as 25%. For example on a 20 yard cast, the stretch can be as much as 5 yards. This figure sounds unbelievable but tests and research will back this statement. The negative result of line stretch is greatly reduced power on hook-sets.

Braided lines have a near zero stretch even when wet. This will result in most power at the point you need it most, the hook. In return, you will be able to land a much great percentage of the fish that strike your bait.

The hybrid lines seem to strike a balance between the very stretchy mono lines and the no-stretch braided lines. I find this a very appealing characteristic.

Abrasion Resistance – A very important characteristic that I require in fishing line is abrasion resistance. The first thing river anglers look for in fishing line is abrasion resistance. Many trophy Steelhead and Salmon escape by breaking or weakening the line on their teeth, rocks, or other obstructions in the water. Frequently check your line for nicks or frazzles or areas of abrasion that will cause a weakness.

When fighting a decent fish, in fresh or saltwater, three things can happen: (1) the fish goes deep, pulling the line across rocks, logs or other hard objects, (2) the fish is big and the line will rub across its body or tail, and (3) other things, such as the boat, a jetty, surface objects or dock, or even other fish in the area, may bump into your line. All three factors will cause abrasion, eventually prompting the line to break. After every fishing trip, or after playing out a nice fish, cut off approximately ten feet of line and retie, if you have reason to believe it may have been frayed. Please put that expended line in your pocket to dispose of properly at home rather than leaving it by the river side.

Line Color – Most manufacturers offer several color options. Many offer line with no visibility, ie clear or light green, and others with increasing visibility, ie blue, Pink, Gun Metal, to very visible Hi-viz yellow, and day-glow chartreuse. Choice of line colors is mostly a personal preference guided in part by the type of fishing you are doing. Many fishermen want to see their line when they are plug fishing or float fishing so choose one of the highly colored options. By seeing you line more easily you can have greater control over it. On the other hand if you are drift fishing, side drifting or boondoggin, you may want to choose a line with little or no visibility, as the fish may be spooked by seeing your line in the water.

In any case you should always choose a clear/invisible line for your leader. Steelhead especially can be easily spooked by your line.

Floating or Sinking Line – With the introduction of the braided lines, you can now choose either floating or sinking lines. Generally a sinking line is preferable in most cases except for float fishing and drift fishing from the bank on large rivers where you have a lot of line in the water.

Most mono lines readily sink and will permit you to keep your line low in the water where the Steelhead and Salmon are located.

Floating lines are especially helpful when you are float fishing because you can mend them much like the fly fishing technique to give you a longer natural drift. This also applies to drift fishing large rivers when you will have a lot of line in the water.

Knot Strength/Performance – Not all lines perform the same when tied into a knot. Further the new braided lines require special knots to be used effectively. Because a knot inherently twist and adds stress to a piece of line, it creates a weak point. Most of the lines offered today will give you 80-95% of the strength of the line itself. See our discussion on knots here. Further be aware that some knot have a tendency to loosen over time so should be checked frequently. Finally, understand that most mono and copolymer lines are the more forgiving and offer the better knot performance than the braided/super lines.

Line Diameter – Obviously the diameter of a line affects its strength. But it also affects casting distance, how deep your line will travel in the water, and its visibility. Generally speaking the smaller diameter the line is the better but the smallest diameter lines tend to create more backlashes.

When selecting braided lines, it is best to choose a line of similar diameter (not test) to mono lines, especially for a new super line user. As you get more familiar with the performance of braided lines, you may want to choose a smaller diameter for longer casts and less current drift, but it is still recommend that you use a line of higher strength than monofilament in any particular fishing application.

Line Memory/stiffness – Some lines are stiffer than others and some retain some of the twist caused by storing it on your reel. Generally you want to choose a line with the least amount of line memory.

Line Quality – Lines come in a wide variety of qualities. The more expensive lines have better quality control and will be consistent in strength, color and diameter. They will hold up longer on the spool and in use. Sometimes, even though a manufacturer has an excellent reputation, it can still suffer from quality control issues. A good example is Berkley who introduced a fluorocarbon line a few years ago names Vanish. This line proved to have quite inconsistent quality, with some sections quite good and others, with a very low breaking strength.

Line quality can actually vary even coming from the same spool. It is always best to check your line as you spool it onto your reel.

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General Tips – Here are some general tips regarding Salmon and Steelhead fishing lines

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Line Manufacturers
Here is a list of line manufacturers and brands that are commonly used for Steelhead and Salmon fishing. Please remember that new lines a coming out frequently and some on this list may not be available in your local tackle store, so be knowledgeable when you go to purchase new line.

Berkley – Trilene, Fireline, Iron Silk, Big Game, more
Maxima – Ultragreen, Chameleon, Clear, more
Sufix – DNA, Tritanium, more
Power Pro –
P-Line – Floroclear, Spectrex, more
Seaguar
Ande – Premium, Tournament
Yozuri
IZOR Line
Private label lines, ie Cabelas, others